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More Information On
Hachiya - Japanese
Persimmon
| Chill
Hours |
<
100 hours |
Form |
ornamental
with drooping leaves and branches |
| Climate
Zones |
7
to 10 |
Bloom
Color |
inconspicuous |
| Growth
Rate |
|
Mature
Height |
about
25 feet tall |
| Mature
Spread |
about
25 feet wide |
Environment |
Full
sun |
| Soil |
deep,
well drained loam. A pH range of 6.5 to 7.5 is preferred |
Leaf
Color |
Glossy
deep green |
| Fall
Color |
|
Uses |
Ornamental,
Specimen, Food crop |
| Bloom
Time |
|
Attributes |
|
| Disease
Resistance |
relatively
problem-free |
Ripens |
|
Notes:
| Location: Full
sun with some air movement is recommended for persimmon
trees in inland areas, although they will tolerate some
partial shade. As an attractive ornamental the tree
fits well in the landscape. |
| Soil: Persimmons
can withstand a wide rage of conditions but does best in
deep, well drained loam. |
| Irrigation: Persimmon
trees will withstand short periods of drought, but the
fruit will be larger and of higher quality with regular
watering. Extreme drought will cause the leaves and fruit
to drop prematurely. |
| Fertilization: Most
trees do well with a minimum of fertilizing. Excess
nitrogen can cause fruit drop. If mature leaves are not
deep green and shoot growth is less than a foot per year,
apply a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 at a rate
of l pound per inch of trunk diameter at ground level.
Spread the fertilizer evenly under the canopy in late
winter or early spring. |
| Pruning:
Prune persimmon trees to develop a strong framework of
main branches while the tree is young. Otherwise the
fruit, which is borne at the tips of the branches, may be
too heavy and cause breakage. Even though the trees
grow well on their own, persimmons can be pruned heavily
as a hedge, as a screen, or to control size. They even
make a nice espalier. |
| Pests and Diseases: Persimmons are relatively problem-free, although
mealybug and scale can sometimes cause problems.
Other pests such as squirrels, deer, coyotes, rats,
opossums and birds are fond of the fruit and gophers will
attack the roots. Other problems include blossom and young
fruit shedding, especially on young trees. This is not
usually a serious problem, but if the drop is excessive,
it may be useful to try girdling a few branches. Over
watering or over fertilization may also be responsible.
Large quantities of small fruit on an otherwise healthy
tree can be remedied by removing all but one or two fruit
per twig in May or June |
| Harvest:
Harvest astringent varieties when they are hard but fully
colored. They will soften on the tree and improve in
quality, but you will probably lose many fruit to the
birds. Astringent persimmons will ripen off the tree if
stored at room temperature. Non-astringent persimmons are
ready to harvest when they are fully colored, but for best
flavor, allow them to soften slightly after harvest. Both
kinds of persimmons should be cut from the tree with
hand-held pruning shears, leaving the calyx intact Unless
the fruit is to be used for drying whole, the stems should
be cut as close to the fruit as possible. Even though the
fruit is relatively hard when harvested, it will bruise
easily, so handle with care.
Mature, hard astringent
persimmons can be stored in the refrigerator for at least
a month. They can also be frozen for 6 to 8 months.
Non-astringent persimmons can be stored for a short period
at room temperature. They will soften if kept with other
fruit in the refrigerator. Persimmons also make an
excellent dried fruit. They can either be peeled and dried
whole or cut into slices (peeled or unpeeled) and dried
that way. When firm astringent persimmons are peeled and
dried whole they lose all their astringency and develop a
sweet, date like consistency. |
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